Saturday, August 14, 2010

Leaving Turkey for San Sebastian

With only about a day left in Istanbul, there were still so many things left to do! For some last minute shopping and a "must do" activity, Marat and I headed over to Mike's restaurant for brunch on Sunday. Cheryl had spoken often of this place and the proprietors and friends she has developed from there. It was clearly a low-key type place that reminded me of a cross between Danal's in New York City and a marijuana den in San Francisco. The food was very good and the atmosphere was unique. There must be a thousand lamps hanging from the ceilings and many textiles all over the walls. The hotel/restaurant is truly only a dalliance for his bigger business of carpet and textile sales. Since I had already spent my carpet allowance in Morocco, I looked at some Anatolyan tapestries and found a couple of pieces that I couldn't live without and would leave me with special memories. One I will put in my University cube to remind me of the larger picture of life so I can stay calm when stressed over things there. Another will grace my entry table at home. Unfortunately, the grand bazaar was closed so I guess I will truly have to return to Istanbul to see it and the numerous other things I'd missed.

We walked around Taxsim Square more this day and got to a couple of the museums that I had missed thus far. A must see was the famous Turtle Tammer picture and then we took off for the modern museum. I typically am not too fond of modern art but this museum had some special pieces and exhibits. Marat knowing the place helped as we had little time but strategic viewing opportunities. There was a special exhibit related to fashion that was very interesting and one that I would definitely recommend to others if they got a chance to see it. As we left this museum we saw another warehouse open with some avant garde type art displays. This was free -- and unusual. Many were visual clips -- for example, of a futbol game being played by men in suits -- and were aimed at challenging the manner in which we think about money and the economy. One display showed three gas pumps on one side and the devastation of gasoline fires on the other. All very interesting. Closing the day with the same dinner we had the first day put a nice final touch to my visit in Istanbul.

Seeing Marat's University was also one of the other must do things. We did that on Monday morning and I got to meet his colleagues and boss, as well as enjoy the view that he enjoys when working in his office. I could see why he was happy working here. I had a nice conversation with his past department chair and other young professional women who are beginning their careers as University instructors as well. The department chair, who has been researching, writing, and speaking about women's Islamic issues, was particularly interesting since her work brings up some of the same questions that I'm reading in my new novel, Snow by Orhan Pamur. She recently completed a novel that I look forward to being able to read when it is translated into English.

Ultimately all good things must come to an end, however, and my wonderful time in Turkey was closing out. I bid Marat farewell (leaving him a few things to bring to me in the US when he returns in September) and headed to the Asian side, again, to take a plane to Barcelona. The first big glitch occurred here when my luggage was 8 kg. over their weight limit and they charged me about $100 to send my things. Although I protested (since I could not get anything done online ahead of time), it was to no avail. Arriving in Barcelona at about 7 p.m. I went to an airport hotel so that I could get to the airport early the next morning.

It's hard to be in a town you want to visit -- yet, not visit it. That will have to wait till Cody, Setare, and I return next week. Now I was preparing for San Sebastian.

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